Elie Saab said his fall collection was inspired by “Giselle,” though he flitted around the theme with a display of moody glamour. The ballet, about a heartbroken peasant girl who joins the Wilis, a group of ghostly spirits of maidens, is best known for its scenes with the female corps de ballet costumed in pure white. Saab, by contrast, worked a somber palette of deep purple, ink black and royal blue — with a sprinkling of a pale-pink shade that his show notes fancifully referred to as “whisper-light sugar, as if from a maiden’s blushed cheek.” The dancer-inspired silhouettes were most evident on corseted dresses with velvet ribbon details or laced backs. These included an upscale purple dirndl with horizontal lace insets, as well as a vampy purple lace maxi gown where the velvet ribbons framed a bare neckline. Tutus inspired sheer, embroidered or lacy skater skirts, while lilies were also a recurring motif. They were traced in gold studs on a leather biker jacket, and formed an appliqué pattern in black velvet outlined with gold sequins on sheer black tulle. The delicate designs contrasted with demonstrative outerwear, including velvet demi-capes that hung off one shoulder and coats with extravagant fur collars and cuffs. Crystal-studded tights and furry open-toed ankle boots completed the look. Whereas in recent seasons, the designer has tapped models with a large social media following to create buzz around his show, this time he let the clothes do the talking.